Choosing the Router of Your Dreams

Choosing the Router of Your Dreams

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For anyone who doubts that competition ultimately benefits consumers, I keep a small plywood box in my workshop. It contains the first router I ever bought, a 3/4 hp fixed-base model. It cost several hundred dollars in 1978, and stands as proof of the gains made as more manufacturers have entered the game since then.

I never use the tool any more. It’s weak, loud, has a broken collect lock and mawookes strange bearing noises, all despite low mileage. I offer all this as proof that woodworking tools in general -- and routers in particular -- are better than ever. The only downside is the need to wade through all the great offerings to find a tool that’s right for you. It’s confusing, and that’s where I can help with this three-tip buyer’s guide.

Tip#1: Buy High
It took me five years to realize I was selecting tools based on two non-issues: price and current needs. I’m miserly -- a trait that I’ve noticed often runs in the blood of woodworkers -- so my natural tendency is to buy just what I need and to buy it cheap. Trouble is, that cheap tool is actually quite expensive when used as a paperweight. And that’s exactly what basic econo-tools turn into as novices evolve into experienced woodworkers.

If you’re a beginner, buy more router than you think you’ll ever need. Aim ahead of the target and you’ll be right on the bullseye as your skills grow. If you’re experienced, perhaps with a router or two in the shop already, focus on specialized models, and only in response to genuine need. Resist advertising and struggle a bit with a router that’s less than ideal before you buy another.

Tip#2: Look at Your Work
Routers are one of the best tools for creating the deep, enclosed recesses that form half of the legendary mortise and tenon joint. Routers are also unbeatable for milling interlocking tongue and groove edges on boards. They’re ideal for making topnotch moldings, preparing corner joints for window and door frames, and making beautiful interlocking finger and dovetail joints on boxes, drawers and storage chests. Too few people realize that routers are also powerful copying tools for replicating curved parts precisely, with no need for edge sanding.

This quick-list is designed to tantalize you, and get you thinking about router use and router choice. The first model in your tool collection should be a general-purpose machine that draws between 10 and 15 amps of electricity. It should include variable speed control and come with something called a plunge base. This allows you to raise and lower the position of the router’s bit relative to the work surface with the flick of a lever during a cut. You can’t beat a medium or large-size plunge router for versatility.

Another consideration is collet size. This refers to the diameter of router bit shaft that can be held by a router. When you make your selection, you’ll be faced with machines that accept 1/4-inch diameter router bit shanks only, 1/2-inch shanks only, or both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch shanked bits. Even though most of the bits you’ll want to use are available with either 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch shanks, there’s a surprising advantage to owning 1/2-inch hardware. During a heavy cut, for instance, some 1/4-inch bits can flex slightly under load, causing visible ripples in the routed surface. Half-inch bits, on the other hand, are rock solid and never break, even when the going gets tough.